- Topic
- sump pump maintenance
- For
- Newmarket homeowners
- Need a hand?
- (365) 990-3021
The reason it counts
A sump pump sits silently for months, then must run hard for weeks as the ground thaws. Many fail at exactly that moment. The float may have stuck against the pit wall, the check valve may have seized, or the motor may simply have reached the end of its life during the quiet winter.
Most basements in Newmarket, East Gwillimbury and the surrounding towns rely on weeping tile that drains into a sump pit. If the pump fails during a thaw, groundwater rises in the pit and spills across the basement floor. For a finished basement, that can mean ruined flooring, drywall and furniture.
Steps, in order
- Check the power. See that the plug is seated in an outlet that has power and that the cord is not damaged. If it has a GFCI outlet, press its test and reset buttons.
- Lift the lid and look. Clear out any gravel, silt or debris from the bottom of the pit. Note whether water is already present.
- Pour water into the pit. Use a bucket and add water slowly until the float rises. The pump ought to start, empty the pit quickly and shut off cleanly.
- Watch the float. It should move freely. If it catches on the pit wall or a cord, reposition it.
- Listen for trouble. Grinding, rattling or a hum without pumping all mean the pump needs attention.
- Check the check valve. After the pump stops, water should not rush back into the pit. A thumping sound or a pit refilling from above means the valve may be failing.
- Follow the discharge outside. Make sure the outlet is not frozen, blocked or pointed back at the foundation. It should carry water well away from the house.
- Try the backup. Where a battery unit is fitted, disconnect the primary pump and run the pail test once more, watching the backup take over.
Bench note
Many pumps last somewhere around seven to ten years. If yours falls in that range and runs often, plan its replacement before the thaw rather than during it.
Signs your sump system needs more than a check
A pump that keeps going through a dry spell, a pit that fills quicker than the pump can empty it, or a discharge line that freezes every winter all point to a deeper problem. Older homes sometimes have galvanized or undersized discharge lines that restrict flow; our circular on galvanized pipe in older homes explains why that material struggles with age.
Ringing for help
Call if the pump does not start during the test, if it runs but does not empty the pit, if the float sticks repeatedly or if the pump is old and working hard. We can replace the pump, fit a new check valve, add a battery backup or reroute the discharge.
While we are in the basement, we are glad to look at other fixtures that need attention, from a wobbly toilet to a worn shower valve. Owners in Schomberg and across the region can reach us at (365) 990-3021.
Phoned-in questions
How often is a sump pump test worth doing?
Test it in early spring before the thaw, and again in the fall before heavy rains. A quick test only takes a few minutes.
My sump pump runs on dry days. Why?
Groundwater may still be high from melting snow, or a worn check valve is draining the discharge line back down.
Should I add a battery backup?
If your pump runs often or your area loses power in storms, a backup is good protection for a finished basement.